Maybe this is becoming more normal in the modern and wily world of 2017, but regardless of that, I’m not sure I’ll ever get over being impressed by the seeming ease with which my peers migrate to new places and new adventures.
And damn if I’m not thankful for it.
Recently, I was lucky enough to hop over the Mediterranean on an Athens to Tel Aviv flight, thus accomplishing two major wins in my book: first, I saw a friend who, planted in this beautiful inclination towards wandering, lives in Tel Aviv; and second, I fulfilled a lifelong dream of seeing Israel. A two-for-one trip, if you will.
I have only one regret from the trip (okay maybe two if you count the accidental passport switcheroo with my friend, but that’s a story for another day…): I should have stayed longer! In so many ways, and especially within Tel Aviv, Israel was nothing like I expected it to be. I suppose when we’re taught about the “Holy Land” in the States, we get this idea of a place that is an odd conundrum of being immune to time within its rather modern geopolitical borders. Or maybe we’re just kids that are only thinking about camels and Jesus sandals…
And that’s not to say that those things don’t exist! There was a sense of timelessness in Jerusalem and I did see a camel on the side of the road from the bus to the Dead Sea (I asked the bus driver to stop but alas). The part of Jerusalem outside of the Old City walls however feels quite modern. Haifa has expansive industry along its coast in addition to the absolute majesty that is the Bahai Garden. And Tel Aviv… well it’s bustling and vibrant and urban and wonderful.
Arguably one of my favorite parts of the whole trip was the Florentine area of Tel Aviv that is a hub for graffiti and alternative cultural events. I have a deep fascination with and love for street art. I hear so many people complain about it or say it detracts from a city, destroys buildings, etc. Those people are wrong. An active street art scene says so much about a city in my opinion. It puts on proud display artistry, creativity, and social engagement. What more could you want from your population? If urban art brings youth to greater cultural awareness or makes a statement to outsiders as well, honestly what are you complaining about? If you can be as educated by an image on a crumbling building as by a political speech, why not support the initiative?
But that’s probably enough of my soapbox…
The kind of haphazard beauty of Florentine was such an intriguing contrast to the old world charm of Jaffa. It reminded me so much of a wonderful combo between Valletta in Malta and some of the small villages on various Greek islands. Of course there were some tourist traps wrapped in there, as there always are in such beautiful and historical contexts, but even those couldn’t take away from the architecture, the sea view, and the little alleys leading to God knows where.
Just those two neighborhoods would have been enough for a stellar experience of the city, but the huge pedestrian promenade and thrilling madhouse that was the market (or shuk) were cherries on top. I love markets more than most things. I love to see how people set them up in various cities, how they all compare, how the people shop, barter, etc. And I would be lying if I said I didn’t also love seeing how well I can eat my way through them. There will never be better people watching and there will rarely be better food.
And oh… the food! From traditional Mediterranean salads to eastern sweets to challah bread and various fusion dishes. The food was absolutely unparalleled. High compliments coming from an avid eater like me.
Take all of this together and you get an experience I wouldn’t trade for anything but that I honestly wasn’t expecting. If I had placed bets on my trip’s outcome or impressions before going, I would have put serious money on the idea that it was going to be Jerusalem that left me breathless. After all… Jesus sandals, you know. But it was Tel Aviv that stole my poor little pea-pickin’ wanderer heart (ask a Texan about this expression if you’re confused). It was Tel Aviv that took my breath away.
And there’s really some intangible, wonderful thing about a place turning out nothing like you expected it to. Expectations shattered, memories made. It keeps you humble. It keeps you excited. Because whether you’ve been to one country, ten countries, or even a hundred… the world just has so many surprises up its sleeve.
An Unlikely Compendium 